I first visited Florence 10 years ago on a school trip. We arrived in November, two weeks into our three-week stay, slightly exhausted from the bustle of Rome and a little worse for wear after everyone caught a cold while on a farm stay in Orvieto. Florence was a salve. I remember our first evening, walking along Via Roma to the Ponte Vecchio and rubbing the snout of Il Porcellino along the way. I am ashamed to admit I hadn’t considered much of Florence before we arrived, instead I was more excited to get through it to finally arrive in Venice. Well, I’ve never been back to Venice, and this year was my fourth visit to Florence. You do the maths. I remain forever changed by that inaugural journey.
Florence is a walking city where around every corner you find a new façade that stops you in your journey, a street performer who you can see is genuinely there to showcase their talent, a wine window flocked by packs of American tourists caught up in the fun. You can be in the centre of the attractions and then after a short five-minute stroll find yourself completely removed, instead wandering a street that is home to local artisans and designers slightly off the beaten track, even though very much nearby the beaten track.
I never feel more myself than when I’m in Florence. It’s hard to explain. I feel inspired, at peace, at one with the rhythm of the city and how time goes by when you’re in it. Each time, I’ve found new corners that feel me or are places I am constantly drawn back to. This time, I wanted to explore Oltrarno and the Santo Spirito area after much time spent on the other side of the river, or up past the Boboli Gardens. This side takes on a different vibe to the Florence you see in your TikToks or in films. It’s the liveable side, the side where one can breathe – where the city breathes.
I want to acknowledge the fantastic Rebecca from Instagram who actually showcases this part of the city extremely well. Damian and I went I visit the Boboli Gardens only to find it closed (first Monday of the month, rookie mistake) and instead pulled up her guide of Santo Spirito. In here, you will see some of what we saw became some of my favourite parts of our time in the city.
I once read someone describe Florence as the ‘treeless city.’ While yes, this does remain true in the centre (but also, I don’t see trees near the Trevi Fountain), as you head up towards Piazzalle Michaelangelo, the greenery is abundant. Even on the banks of the river itself, you find small Piazzas that are framed by Stone Pine trees and other shrubbery. There is life where you look for it. And yes, there are cobblestones with questionable placements and holes that should be repaired, but you hardly notice when you have such beauty to look at around you. There is so much more to say, so much more to ponder but War and Peace can wait for another day. Whittling down my recommendations was tricky for this one, so if you’re lucky there may even be a part two.
Eat:
Il Santino Bevitore – One of the best pasta dishes I have ever eaten was at Il Santino Bevitore. Simple, yet done so well, the pasta itself was cooked to perfection and paired with a simple allotment of vegetables. Inside, the atmosphere is moody and cosy and makes for a perfect date night spot. There is also an extensive wine list for those so inclined. And don’t skip out on the caprese with burrata, cherry tomatoes and basil oil.
Hostaria Da Fulvio – We stumbled upon Hostaria Da Fulvio by chance after a drink around the corner. You’ll find this one on the way to Piazza Santo Spirito, where I’d recommend visiting after dinner for an ice cream or to simply sit and take in the atmosphere. Here, I ordered fettuccine in a lemon sauce, which was a fresh and zesty combination like I’d never had before. They also have a separate bar attached, which only opened recently. A one-stop shop.
Enoteca Vasariano – Located just around the corner from the Ponte Vecchio, this hole in the wall – and I mean that literally, it fits about five people inside – crafted me the tastiest sandwich I have eaten thus far in Italy. Onion, tomato, mushroom cream and eggplant (I think) served on airy, crisp bread, the thing was the size of my face and yet it still wasn’t big enough given how delicious it was. What I loved was how they make the sandwich fresh before your eyes, so it hasn’t been sitting in the window for who knows how many hours. Worth being patient and waiting as there can be a line.
Drink:
Loggia Bar – Also in Piazza Santo Spirito, you will find Hotel Palazzo Guadagni. Loggia is its rooftop bar, where you take in sweeping views of the red rooves and buttery sunsets that stretch across Florence. I recommend the Loggia Spritz: Aperol, Campari, Prosecco and Ginger Ale. Their staff are also extremely welcoming. Just don’t forget your hat and sunscreen.
Babae – Delicious, delicious Negronis! Those reading all the travel guides for Florence may have come across this place as a location of a Wine Window. Now, yes, they do have a wine window and actually serve Aperol Spritzes through it as well, however if you look beyond the crowd lining up for this, you will find plenty of seating inside and some out. Outside is great for people watching, while inside is a cosy space to relax.
First Glass – First Glass is a stone’s throw from the Ponte Vecchio and the Uffizi, serving wine both takeaway and sit down. They have both indoor and outdoor seating, though I do recommend outdoor if you can snag a seat and especially at sunset. The Vermentino was a particular highlight and if you’re not sure where to start, speak to the incredibly knowledgeable staff and they’ll find the perfect vino for your palate.
Stay:
Hotel della Signorina – Could not fault this place, I could not! Centrally located yet on a quieter street, Hotel Signorina has large rooms, comfortable beds and a Bell Tower view if you’re lucky enough. You can store your luggage if needed and the staff are very helpful and friendly.
Torre a Cona – While technically not in Florence city, I would be remiss not to mention our stay at Torre a Cona in Tuscan wine country. A villa stay is something I had wanted to do for years and for all the times I had travelled to Florence, I felt the missing piece to my puzzle was the fact I was yet to travel out into the vineyards. Torre a Cona is breathtaking. I could have spent days poolside, with a drink in my hand, not caring about the time of day or what I had planned in a week’s time. We were lucky enough to have had our room upgraded and the view from our window will stay with me forever, a vista I want to wake up to everyday, a bath so large and comfortable I’ll never be satisfied with any other. And the wine? As good as I had imagined. I highly encourage a splurge stay here at some point.
Shop:
Heart to Heart in Florence – As you may pick up when researching the locations of some of these recommendations, a handful of them are located on the same street. Made With Love is next door to Il Santino’s wine bar. Here, I purchased a pair of fruliane in a Bordeaux colour. The sales assistant pulled out every colour they had so I felt welcome to try them all on until I found a pair that felt just right. I regret not buying more than one pair.
Todo Modo Bookshop – Never walk past a bookstore without going in is my motto. Todo Modo had been recommended to me some time ago and I was pleased to see it was nearby to where we were staying. Stocking books in multiple languages, there’s something for everyone inside, from coffee table books, novels and magazines.
See:
The Uffizi – While I have been to Florence a few times before, this was my boyfriend’s first time, so we made sure to visit the Uffizi. I believe he said something like “this place is huge” by not even halfway through. And he was correct: the Uffizi is massive. I say it appears like a Tardis from the outside, and once you’re inside you realise there are more and more rooms that lead to rooms that lead to passageways you didn’t even realise connected. Home to pieces by Botticelli, da Vinci, Rembrandt and more, set aside an afternoon to take in masterpieces that appear never-ending as you go along. It also has a fantastic gift shop, not to be missed.
The Rose Garden – On your way to Piazzalle Michaelangelo, which you will inevitably go to at some point, don’t miss the Rose Garden. Easily missed, it is the slightly less busy lookout where you can sit on the grass and take in the city. I don’t want to say too much because you need to experience it for yourself, but I feel a certain sense of calm and awe when I sit here.
The Gucci Garden – One for the fashion lovers, the Gucci Garden museum regularly refreshes their exhibitions of the Gucci archive, including Gwyneth’s iconic red velvet suit. The Gucci Osteria and an exclusive Gucci Garden boutique are also attached to the museum.
Saved! Going this fall and was looking for hotel recs. Thank you!
Come back to Venice. In the winter 😉